Just finished this one, can strongly recommend it. (Others are Barbarian days and Wingnut’s complete surfing).

From ancient Peru to tow-in, from Hawaiian finless to channeled shortboards, from Duke Kahanamoku to Lane Beachley, from army cutoffs to Quicksilver, stomp parties to world cup events, this book covers everything surf until the 2010s.

A rather easy read, provides the needed dose when too sick to surf.

Edited typos