I’m in the process of replacing all my single-color christmas lights with addressable RGB LEDs, but the 12mm “bullet” form factor of them is different from the traditional incandescent mini lights, the 5mm wide angle LEDs, etc.:

You’d think they’d make C6/7/9 bulb covers that attach to them, but I have yet to find any for sale, anywhere. As such, I want to 3D print some, along with 12mm bullet pixel-sized replacements for my snowflake lights:

What’s some good filament I can get that will be reasonably clear and stay that way (without yellowing or getting too brittle) for several years’ worth of Christmas seasons, despite UV/rain/cold exposure?

(Bonus question: anybody know a good way to model the facets in those “strawberry” lights? The C7 bulbs on Thingiverse, such as this one, are all smooth, LOL.)


Edit: by the way, to be clear (pun intended): I don’t need optical clarity like the lens guy; scattering the light is fine. (In fact, doing that on purpose is kind of the point of modeling a faceted C7 bulb instead of a smooth one.) I just want to make sure that whatever part of the filament that doesn’t manage to be transparent is white, not tinted some dingy color.

I do happen to have some Inland “natural” PLA laying around and did a test print in that. It’s not too bad – only a little bit yellow at the wall thickness I’m using – but I fear for how it will hold up over time.

  • kensand@sopuli.xyz
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    11 days ago

    Hmmm, I would usually go for ASA for anything outside, but searching around for transparent ASA comes up empty… I guess maybe transparent ASA isn’t a thing? Too bad, since you could smooth it with acetone to make it even lower opacity. You could also look at Polycarbonate and PETG, which I know can be made transparent, but those might yellow a bit after a few years.

    I’m interested in other people’s thoughts. Definitely a good question!

    • Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works
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      11 days ago

      Agree, Asa ideal, but I’ve never seen it in transparent varieties. I’d actually try PVB - probably some of the nicest transparency. Might not hold up well outdoors, but I’d give it a shot and then go to PETG if it falls apart.

        • KingRandomGuy@lemmy.world
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          11 days ago

          I’ve tried Overture, Creality, and Inland (all black though, not transparent) and Overture printed the best for me (at least for functional parts where I cared about print quality and tolerances). Inland’s PETG+ and High Speed PETG was even better though.

        • PlasticExistence@lemmy.world
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          10 days ago

          Inland is my go-to since Microcenter contracts with good manufacturers. Their ASA is made by Polymaker, the PLA+ is eSun (I use a lot of it), but I’m not sure who makes their PETG. I’m sure it’s good though.

    • kensand@sopuli.xyz
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      11 days ago

      Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.

      • grue@lemmy.worldOP
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        11 days ago

        Yeah, I’ll probably do a clear coat.

        The thought of using a resin printer had crossed my mind, as well. It wouldn’t work for the snowflakes – those would be too large for any but the most gigantic resin printers – but it would be optimal for the C7 bulbs. That said, I literally just bought a new filament printer (just an Ender 3, not a fancy Bambu or anything – until now I was making do with a MP Mini!) and buying two printers at the same time makes my bank account sad.

        Also, I’m not sure the material resin printers use is all that great at resisting UV either.

        • kensand@sopuli.xyz
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          11 days ago

          Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.

          Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉