Good recommendations, it’s almost the same list of upgrades that I’ve done to my E3v2. I went with a dual Z-screw upgrade which uses a sync belt instead of a second motor, since I use the stock board and didn’t want to run two steppers off the same driver (it should work IIRC, but it seemed annoying if they get out of sync since the printer can’t level them individually)

Also never use that damn scraper everyone I know who has including myself has a scar from it lol

I use it all the time if a model won’t come off easily. I grab the blade between two fingers, and then hammer the model from the side with the handle to knock it off the plate :)

You do NOT need an all metal hotend with this, use the stock red one it’s all you need

Technically the hotend becomes “all metal” with this, as the PTFE-tube does not go all the way down to the nozzle after the upgrade. Best illustration I could find

Not saying you’re wrong, but it could give a good view of what tasks people want to use AI for.

Intel NUC running Linux. Not the cheapest solution but can play anything and I have full control over it. At first I tried to find some kind of programmable remote but now we have a wireless keyboard with built-in touchpad.

Biggest downside is that the hardware quality is kind of questionable and the first two broke after 3 years + a few months, so we’re on our third now.

The most common reasons to buy Prusa that I have heard are their 24/7 support, warranty and wanting to support a European company. I’m not entirely up to date with Chinese manufacturers, so things could have changed, but at least in the past Fysetc, Blurolls and even Trianglelab seemed to be on par, or even exceeding, Prusa quality for printers and parts.

This is my wireguard docker setup:

version: "3.6"
services:
  wireguard:
    image: linuxserver/wireguard
    container_name: wireguard
    cap_add:
      - NET_ADMIN
      - SYS_MODULE
    environment:
      - PUID=116
      - PGID=122
      - TZ=Europe/Stockholm
      - ALLOWEDIPS=192.168.1.0/24
    volumes:
      - /data/torrent/wireguard/config:/config
      - /lib/modules:/lib/modules
    ports:
      - 192.168.1.111:8122:8122  # Deluge webui
      - 192.168.1.111:9127:9127  # jackett webui
      - 192.168.1.111:9666:9666  # prowlarr webui
      - 51820:51820/udp           # wireguard
      - 192.168.1.111:58426:58426  # Deluge RPC
    sysctls:
      - net.ipv4.conf.all.src_valid_mark=1
      - net.ipv6.conf.all.disable_ipv6=1
      - net.ipv6.conf.default.disable_ipv6=1
    restart: unless-stopped

Can reach the webuis from LAN, no other network configuration was necessary. 192.168.1.111 is the server’s LAN address. The other services are configured very similar to your qbittorrent, and don’t expose any ports. Can’t promise it’s 100% correct but it’s working for me.

Do you know how to check for bowden gap, and how to hot tighten the hotend/nozzle in order to prevent it?

Hope you decided to buy neither of the two in the end, since Flashforge is also known for being anti-consumer and their shady business practices. Out of the two I’d actually go with Bambu Lab if I didn’t care about openness and modding, since their printers at least seem to have fairly good quality.

Found the blog post that I was thinking of, with a little more about Prusa’s relation with opene source. https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-state-of-open-source-in-3d-printing-in-2023_76659/

I admit this is speculation, but I got the impression that Prusa is moving away from open source because they’re salty about other companies cloning their products and selling them much cheaper than the “original” parts. Proprietary parts, patents, etc. is of course worse for the user than a fully open ecosystem, but he isn’t necessarily going full anti-consumer.

You have to specify which quantization you find acceptable, and which context size you require. I think the most affordable option to run large models locally is still getting multiple RTX3090 cards, and I guess you probably need 3 or 4 of those depending on quantization and context.

Add “site:reddit.com” to your google query.

Sad thing is that search engines have got so bad, and usually return so much garbage blog spam that searching directly on reddit is more likely to give useful results. I hope a similar amount of knowledge will build up on Lemmy over time.

Cleaning the print surface with warm water and soap, and then avoiding touching it with your hands, is a good start if you haven’t done so alreayd. Calibrating first layer height, flow rate, temperatures, etc. is generally the way, but if you want a quick and easy solution I gotta say that Magigoo has worked really well for me. It’s a bit expensive, but I’ve reapplied it a few times and never have to wash the bed so that one bottle will likely last a lifetime. I think you can get similar results with a high PVA content glue stick or hair spray. And there are of course other 3d print glues which I haven’t tried, I’m assuming they work equally well.

Only 3.8B parameters according to the paper, so it ought to be quite easy on the hardware as well if they do.

Did you follow some guide when replacing the nozzle and bowden tube? Did you hot tighten it when putting them back?

What speed are you printing at, which you think is too slow? What’s your acceleration?

It’s a myth that capricorn tubing is better in any way

I’d call it “successful marketing” :) But yeah, they’re really managed to convince a lot of people that it has near magical properties, and I’ve seen a lot of random people recommend it to others for all sorts of issues.

It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.

Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.

What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.

Assuming they already own a PC, if someone buys two 3090 for it they’ll probably also have to upgrade their PSU so that might be worth including in the budget. But it’s definitely a relatively low cost way to get more VRAM, there are people who run 3 or 4 RTX3090 too.