5
We investigate the history of indoor rock climbing route setting with professional route setter, Lainy.
Through four boulder problems set by Lainy, we journey through bouldering history to find out how climbing routes have changed, and why.
Lainy
☞https://www.instagram.com/lainy_ontherocks/?hl=en
☞ Onyx Leipzig
https://www.onyx-leipzig.de/en/
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At first glance, route setting may seem a purely practical activity, designed only to help you reach the top of the wall. But, when you really dig into it, it’s clear to see that it’s much, much more.
00:00 Climbing Route Setting
01:20 1990s Bouldering
04:45 V6 Crimp Boulder
07:20 2000s Bouldering
11:10 V6 Physical Strength Boulder
15:15 Free Shipping On Mad Rock Shoes
16:40 2020s Bouldering Competitions
18:30 2020s Dynamic Jump Boulder
20:05 Parkour Bouldering Popularity
21:35 2025 Bouldering Trends
24:00 Modern Aesthetic Indoor Boulder
27:14 How Route Setting Has Changed
We flew to Germany to dig into the bouldering archives at Onyx Leipzig, setting some old school boulders from the ages, and some modern competition boulders to examine how route setting tells the story of climbing history.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2XQufF4eIY