You don’t buy from TSMC, but from Intel. Also, AMD also uses TSMC, they didn’t have such problems recently.

In Futurama, they renamed it to Urectum :)

Thanks. The mill is utter trash though, which I modded as much as I could (the pink part is a 3d printed funnel), the wheels are not grippy enough, the knurling isn’t deep enough and I end up having to push the grain with my fingers and it’s very tedious and slow. I spent an hour milling a 5 kg of grain. It wasn’t even finely ground. It’s the next thing I’ll upgrade, as soon as I find a good brand/model.

This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it’s either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn’t say it’s that it’s the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I’m printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that’s not important. I’ve had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I’m printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

You’re completely right, I forgot about that method. I’ve used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

True, I’ve seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn’t go over 60C and you’re good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don’t have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn’t work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won’t do much.

A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

As others have mentioned:

• Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
• Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
• Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it’s original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you’re printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it’s gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

In 2024? No, unless it’s a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I’d be buying today,I’d buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn’t find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it’s very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.

I did it and I’m very satisfied with the result. Though I went full diy and ordered parts individually. I did all of the printed parts from recycled PET from bottles which I recycled myself. The rest I ordered from aliexpress. I have a previous version, didn’t get around to update. I made an adaptor for herome gen 6 hotend holder and made it with mostly stock e3d v6 hotend. I just added a cht nozzle. Don’t need anything else. But the best mod IMO is the dual z axis which I recommend even without mercury conversion.

Edit: I did it on ender 5, have no clue what’s the difference on other printers.

You could use just a regular 5 min epoxy. I frequently use CA glue, but depending on your use case, it might be too brittle.

This looks the most promising. I’ll take a closer look. Does it provide a rtsp stream?

Any PC that has virtualization features can be used. Unless it’s very old, I’d say it’s supported. But it may not be enabled in the bios by default. It’s called VT-x for Intel and AMD-v for AMD, I think. But both are supported for at least 10 years on almost any PC.

It’s a hypervisor level virtual machine host and you can use it to install multiple os’s on the same machine with little overhead. I’ve been running haos like that for a few months now and I’m super satisfied.

Yes, for one device, I’d do wifi too. ZigBee does add complexity, but it also adds many possibilities. Esphome is a good solution, I use it also. In fact it seemlessly integrates with HA, so it doesn’t matter

One of the bigger reasons is ZigBee is capable of mesh network forming, which is useful if you want more devices to be smart. It’s also low power. And the devices are in their private network isolated from the internet, which is also a desirable quality. In summary, ZigBee is built for smart devices, whereas wifi not so much.

This seems like the best option for my country. They are easily available and seem cheaper than Reolink. Do they have free API for all the smart functions as well? Like movement detection etc.

I’ve been following him for years and this video had me very disappointed in him. Very arrogant and condescending of him. I know he did similar videos on solar roadways, but 1. he is knowledgeable on that subject, and 2. the people behind that were clearly scammers wanting funding. Here, this is just an unpunished paper with nothing to gain if it turns out it doesn’t work, yet he still treated them as garbage. God, I wish this turns out genuine if only to make HIM look like a dumbass (not to mention this would be huge).

Yes, I imagine real 3nm is nearly impossible, but we’re inching towards it. Still, that’s very nearly the limit for conventional digital ICs.