I would sell a few of them to shore up the budget, then use those funds to build a NAS box. You can buy everything other than drives for a few hundred, less if you have spare parts sitting around.
I would sell a few of them to shore up the budget, then use those funds to build a NAS box. You can buy everything other than drives for a few hundred, less if you have spare parts sitting around.
And knowing how hawkish their lawyers are, they’ve probably had their eyes on Palworld since it was announced anyway. If there was anything actionable, they would have jumped on it already.
Exactly. Doesn’t matter if they’re wired or wifi, or where they are, as long as they’re on the same network you’re fine.
If you’re only trying to use Jellyfin at home, you don’t need any reverse proxy or domain. All you need is for both devices to be on the same network, and for the Raspberry Pi to have a fixed internal IP address (through your router settings).
On the Shield, you just give the Jellyfin app that IP address and port number (10.0.0.X:8096) to connect and you’re good to go.
For a NAS, you’re usually concerned with capacity first. And you can’t buy a 20TB m2.
I’m pretty sure I spent more time playing Ghent than the actual game. And I’m still upset that the standalone version sucked.
You got a remux, which is uncompressed. You can turn those off in Radarr to avoid those surprises.
If you want to fine-tune your file sizes (and quality) further, you can set up custom formats and quality profiles. The Trash Guides explain it well, the “HD Blu-ray + Web” profile on that page is a solid starting point. It’ll usually grab 6-12GB movies, but you can tweak it if you want them smaller.
They’re also surprisingly easy to upgrade for their size. Swapped RAM, CPU, and hard drive in about 15 minutes total on one of mine.
I’ve been happy with DuckDNS. Free, simple, and reliable.
If it was me, I’d just go without parity temporarily and grab another drive for that when I could. A new system should be safe enough for a while, just not forever.
You can interact with a single container if you need to, not just the whole compose group. docker compose restart jellyfin
works for your example, and “restart” can be swapped for stop or start as needed.
Splitting compose files can be a good idea, but it isn’t always necessary.
You could do it on the NAS. Qbittorrent is probably the highest-recommended client right now, and it has a web UI that can be accessed from any other device on your network.
That said, I run one of the tiny Thinkcentres as a dedicated torrent and *arrs box. I think I paid $30 for that one, and it has more than enough power for the task.
Given the recent issues with ads, I wouldn’t recommend anything Android/GoogleTV based. A USFF PC will give you better performance for less money, especially if you buy used. You can find 1L X86 boxes for $30-60 on eBay that are perfect for the job.
Australia actually did that a couple years ago, but only for vaping-related nicotine. Cigs were unaffected.
Yes, that’s how it’s supposedto work if they’re all on the same Docker network (same yaml). In practice, it can be flaky and you’re much better off using ip:port.
They’re also adding an API version check on devices, which will affect old apps that have gotten around the store checks. Only affects devices that can upgrade to 14, but it’s a solid step.
When I used to play CoD, I did something very similar to this. I’d spawn with a knife (and maybe a pistol), and had to “earn” better guns by grabbing them from kills. Like Gun Game, but more fun since everybody else was properly equipped.
It sounds simple and silly, but it kept me playing those games for 2ish years longer than I would have otherwise.
That was my main complaint with the game. I didn’t mind starting limited and building up to full control, but it should have taken half of the time. And some of the early pairings were pretty rough to use without their full kit.
We just need the rest of the Linux gang to experience the glory of pacman+AUR, it’s not our fault they don’t listen.
You can get a USB IR receiver and use software like LIRC to map the inputs of basically any remote you have. Setting it up takes a little effort, but it works great when it’s done.